National Park

Back to the Coast again

Posted on March 3, 2015 by Fifty Toes Walkabout

Heading south again we decided to have a brief stop at Four Mile Beach in Fitzgerald River National Park. The ocean was angry so swimming was not on the agenda, but a spell of beachcombing definitely was. Walking down to the beach we encountered a small but very beautiful green snake with a brown head and black collar. Anyone who knows what it is please let us know.

To our surprise on the beach we then found two dead weedy sea dragons amongst the weed, and then the following morning we found a leafy sea dragon, most likely washed up in the recent rough seas.

What snake is this?
Seadragons washed up on the beach
Banksia flower
View of Four Mile beach

Packing up the next day we headed back East to Quagi beach, a campsite nestled in thick Banksia scrub, with a few Eucalypts. The bird life here was incredible and we stayed for several days. We found more bee hives along the rocky shore, and I managed to get stung on the head by a particularly angry bee. A few days were spent here doing homework and slowing the pace down.

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Categories: australia, Australian Outback, Big Lap, Discover Australia, Explore Australia, Journey Narrative, Kids Travel, National Park, Photography, Travel, Travel Adventure, West Australia | Tags: , , , , , | 6 Comments

Eucla

Posted on February 14, 2015 by Fifty Toes Walkabout

Arriving in Eucla we headed straight for the Telegraph Station that has been engulfed by sand. Movement of sand dunes along the beach slowly overtook the station following a rabbit plague in the 1890s that ate all the vegetation that stabilised the dunes.

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We then set off looking for a beach camp and once again found a maze of 4WD tracks leading everywhere except where we wanted. Anyone watching from the escarpment would have been amused to follow the trail of dust billowing up behind us as we negotiated the multitude of paths. Finally we gave up and headed back into Eucla for the night and enjoyed a dip in their pool, refreshing after several days of inhaling dust from remote tracks. I got some local knowledge and found that one of the sandy paths we had tried actually lead to the jetty and beach and I was keen to go so I dashed down before the sunset. With just the car and no trailer in tow it was a lot easier to get through the sand but I wasn’t expecting to pop onto the beach so quickly. A great photo opportunity indeed and the time of day offered great lighting.

Categories: 4WD, Adventure, australia, Australian Outback, Beach, Big Lap, Discover Australia, Explore Australia, Journey Narrative, Kids Travel, Mitsubishi, National Park, Offroad, Photography, Travel, Travel Adventure, West Australia | Tags: , , | 5 Comments

Coffin Bay National Park

Posted on February 6, 2015 by Fifty Toes Walkabout

Another short drive west from Lincoln National Park brings you to Coffin Bay National Park. Determined to keep up the adventure we decided to camp at Black Springs, the tides were in our favour so we drove down to Yangie Bay, deflated the tyres and headed on. We had a temporary bog that took five minutes to get out of then plain “sailing” from then on in, albeit quite rocky and rough in places.

Avoid Bay
Shell on beach
Seven Mile Beach Sand Dunes
Beach in Coffin Bay
Fiddler Ray
View from the camp
Running down dunes
Seven Mile Beach
Shell
Dead Dolphin on the beach
Point Sir Isaac
Crab
Anemone
Goby
Beach Tree
Seven Mile Beach

Despite being a very dusty campground, the site we chose was on the edge of a low cliff directly above the beach. With its own bench it offered glorious views across the bay to the east. We took the Black Rocks hike to Avoid Bay, a 3.8km walk across the peninsula. A large osprey nest perched prominently on top of a stack below the cliff and a pair of ospreys circled, one with a fish in its talons. The beach was really shallow and water warm so we spent some time snorkelling to cool down. Plenty of fish life but nothing big enough to catch for dinner without a boat!

We took one day with just the car to explore the whole National Park. There is plenty of 4WD fun to be had with lots of sand to Morgans Landing, then rocky to Point Sir Isaac where we watched sea lions and dolphins cruising up and down the coastline. Sensation Beach presented a dune that appeared to go nowhere from below, but in fact a right turn at the crest takes you down to a huge surf fishing beach. On our return we stopped at the big sand dunes beside Seven Mile beach and let the kids run up and down them for an hour.

A short excursion from the campsite to Black Springs Well was worth the walk. The hand pump finally brought forward a brown stream of water that did go clear, albeit full of organic detritus. The park also has a number of wells dug by 19th century Whalers which we found on our excursion around the park

Categories: 4WD, Adventure, australia, Australian Outback, Big Lap, Discover Australia, Explore Australia, Journey Narrative, Kids Travel, National Park, Natural World, Photography, South Australia, Travel, Travel Adventure, Walks | Tags: , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Lincoln National Park – Memory Cove

Posted on February 5, 2015 by Fifty Toes Walkabout

A short drive from Port Lincoln brought us to Lincoln National Park, and we drove down the 4WD track to Memory Cove. During Matthew Flinder’s trip to the area in 1802, eight of his crew took a boat to shore, foundered on the reef near Cape Catastrophe, and lost their lives. The surrounding offshore islands were individually named after them and Memory Cove as a reminder of the incident.

Sea Hare
Sealion
Xavier watches a show
Dolpins
Sealion
White-bellied sea eagle
Memory Cove
Mother and baby dolphin
Sealion

Access is via a padlocked gate and a very rough road takes you to the beach. Unfortunately as soon as you arrive a swarm of bees descends looking for water, so the full awning went up to protect us, but not before I accidentally trod on one and got stung. Once set up things got better and the next few days were spent exploring the beach, shoreline, surrounding area and a bit of fishing. Wildlife abounds in the National Park and when Xavier wasn’t finding sea hares, peninsula brown snake jawbones and more besides we were watching Australian sea lions frolicking around the bay, and sea eagles flying overhead. We even got to watch a newly born baby dolphin being taught the ropes by its parents in the shallows of a nearby beach. It was tiny, barely a metre long and looked very clumsy when it surfaced to breathe, pushing its whole head and torso out, rather than just exposing the blowhole. Fish were everywhere and when the wrasse had stopped eating all the bait the big stuff came out (around dusk). Having watched swimmers in the sandy shallows it was a bit unnerving to see a 2+m bronze whaler cruising in knee-deep water two nights on the trot. Memory Cove is famous for the presence of Great White Sharks in the murky depths but this was 10m from the shore. That said I couldn’t resist slipping into the water at a spot where the sea lions were hanging out to try and get a photo. Unfortunately they were very wary and not as inquisitive as I was hoping they would be in the water. When I didn’t have a camera at hand they were more than happy to mock and put on fantastic jumping performances as we approached. I landed a large eagle ray on the last night after a 30 minute battle, and released it back.

Categories: 4WD, Adventure, Animal Action, australia, Australian Outback, Beach, Big Lap, Discover Australia, Explore Australia, Journey Narrative, Kids Travel, National Park, Natural World, Photography, South Australia, Travel, Travel Adventure | Tags: , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Brachina Gorge, Flinders Ranges

Posted on January 21, 2015 by Fifty Toes Walkabout
Youngoona waterhole
Bunyeroo valley lookout
Flood damaged road
New life sprouting
Fun at Youngoona waterhole
630m year old stromatolite formation
Yellow-footed rock wallaby
Grave of Emma Smith
Wedgetail eagle
Xavier’s bat
Birds nests in cliff
Brachina Gorge view
Brachina

We took the dirt road through Bunyeroo Gorge to the middle of Brachina Gorge, stopped at a couple of the lookouts then entered Brachina Gorge. The gorge is a geological showcase for many rock formations/types over 130 million years from 620+million years to 500 millions ago over a 20km drive. In 2004 a new geological period, the Edicarian, was determined based on fossil beds found in the gorge, that documented many primitive life forms not previously documented (we’d seen these in the museum in Adelaide). We camped nearby at the Trezona campground by the river. Once unhitched from the trailer we explored the gorge and found the recent rains had washed away sections of road, nothing the Pajero couldn’t handle fortunately. The highlight for the kids was Youngoona waterhole where they found enough water to submerse themselves and cool off, catch the enormous tadpoles and watch the birdlife that congregates around the river. My favourite was the rainbow bee-eater, but there were also kingfishers and nests in the cliff that looked like swifts or swallows – anyone who can identify please let us know. Wedgetail eagles frequent the gorges in abundance too.

The morning brought Xavier scampering up from the riverbed with a bat roosting in a curled piece of tree bark.

As we drove out of the gorge we found a mob of yellow footed rock wallabies, the cutest we have seen yet with their hooped tails.

Categories: 4WD, Adventure, Animal Action, australia, Australian Outback, Big Lap, Discover Australia, Explore Australia, Journey Narrative, Kids Travel, National Park, Offroad, Photography, South Australia, Travel, Travel Adventure, Walks | Tags: , , , , , , , , , | 3 Comments

Wilpena Pound, Flinders Ranges

Posted on January 20, 2015 by Fifty Toes Walkabout
Fifty Toes conquer Mt Ohlssen Bagge
Sunrise on Wilpena
Tree at Sunset
Goanna
View of Wilpena Pound
Sunrise view from Wilpena
Caterpillars
Hannah at Olssens peak in the Flinders Ranges
Tawny Dragon

Following serious rainfall many travellers had abandoned the Flinders so there were not many people around the campsite.

We climbed the hill behind the campsite to watch the sun set over Wilpena Pound then early to bed in preparation for a walk the next day. We chose the Mount Ohlssen Bagge walk so everyone could make it (Mary’s Peak walk had only re-opened that morning) but also it is renowned for all the reptiles that can be found along the walk – a big drawcard for the kids. A reasonably challenging walk for the kids was rewarded at the peak with outstanding views across Wilpena Pound, views all around and as promised many different lizards, dragons, skinks and goannas. It was also fairly surprising to see feral goats running along a ridge just below us, bleating cautiously as they edged along the cliff edge. Even here there was still ample evidence of the rain, with a significant water course flowing past the campsite.

The hot afternoon saw weary feet being soaked in the swimming pool. Checking in at the Information Centre the roads further north were starting to open up again, and the one I was immediately interested in was the road to Brachina Gorge. Time to edge further north. The Oodnadatta Track was still closed though.

 

 

Categories: Adventure, australia, Australian Outback, Big Lap, Camper Trailer, Discover Australia, Explore Australia, Great Ocean Road, Journey Narrative, Kids Travel, National Park, Photography, South Australia, Travel, Travel Adventure, Walks | Tags: , , | 4 Comments

Innes National Park – Ship wrecks, Emus, Snakes and Shingleback lizards

Posted on January 16, 2015 by Fifty Toes Walkabout

Innes National Park occupies almost 100 sq km of land at the bottom of the Yorke Peninsula, due west across the Vincent Gulf from Adelaide. It used to be a favourite haunt of mine so it was a pleasure to take the family back.

Emu – pointy end
Mohawk Emu
Pondalowie Wreck
Ethel Wreck
Cape Spencer lighthouse
Emu on the Beach
Relic of Inneston
Emu family
Kids on Ethel Beach
Shingleback lizard
Snake at Pondalowie
Tiger Snake
Roos on the road
The Ethel Wreck, Yorke Peninsula, SA
Emu family
Tick infested shingleback

Thankfully little has changed in the time that has past since I last visited. Surprisingly, only a handful of people were actually staying in the park. On our way down we had a quick close-up of the emus in an enclosure at Minlaton, but just as we entered the park we were greeted by an emu and two chicks strutting by the side of the road. From then on families of them were encountered at what seemed like every bend in the road, with anything from two to six youngsters, even marching towards us on the road at one point.

Shingleback lizards were to be found regularly, either by the side of the road sunning themselves, or rustling through the undergrowth around the camp at Pondalowie. The first one the kids found was infested with reptile ticks and Hannah insisted we remove them all with tweezers, for which the lizard appeared to be grateful, sitting patiently as they were removed one by one and professionally squashed by Xavier.

Ethel Beach is named after a shipwreck in 1920 whose rusting iron carcass still protrudes from the sand above the high water mark. In the shallows nearby lies another wreck, the Ferret, that used a rope tied to the Ethel wreck to save its passengers. After exploring a few caves at the end of the beach it was time to go fishing and looking for shells at Shell Beach. By the end of the day Hannah had caught three fish (sweep and zebra fish) and was happily baiting her own hook casting, landing, and even trying to unhook them herself. I caught a salmon for dinner off my favourite rocks, and Amanda and Xavier had accumulated a nice collection of shells.

Categories: Adventure, australia, Australian Outback, Beach, Big Lap, Discover Australia, Explore Australia, Journey Narrative, Kids Travel, National Park, Photography, South Australia, Travel, Travel Adventure | Tags: , , , | 2 Comments

Flinders Chase National Park, Kangaroo Island

Posted on January 4, 2015 by Fifty Toes Walkabout

A very belated Happy New Year to all. Here’s hoping 2015 brings you all good health, happiness, and plenty of adventure!

Flinders Chase National Park occupies a large proportion the western end of Kangaroo Island, and when I visited Rocky River many years ago it was abundant with the stocky Kangaroo Island kangaroos, echidnas, koalas, Tammar wallabies, snakes and much more. In 2007 a bushfire swept through the park devastating two thirds of the bush, so things had changed and I think Rocky River, the centre of the park has been rebuilt.

Fur seal yawn
Remarkable Rocks
Fur Seal Pup
Fur Seal Pup
Remarkable Rocks
Long nose fur seal
Scorpion
Admirals Arch looking for Seals

Wildlife still abounds, though not quite as intrusively as previously. The animals are still there though it seemed in smaller numbers. Birdlife proliferates around the centre at Rocky River and a number of short walks around the centre provides the visitor with opportunities to see the crimson rosellas, cape barren geese, scarlet robins and lots more. The visitors centre kept the kids busy for several hours with their touch tables of local animal skins, information about the megafauna that used inhabit the area tens of thousand years ago. The centre also provides a kit bag of tools for the kids to explore the sandpit. They got to experience the thrills of archaeologists, digging up/exposing megafauna bones in a 5 x 3m pit, a great learning experience.

We had to visit Remarkable Rocks which look like a giant has scattered unusually sculptured rocks on a solid granite base. The forces of erosion together with orange lichen growth make it a imposing site perched above the southern ocean backdrop.

Nearby, Admirals Arch hosts a colony of Long Nosed Fur Seals (previously NZ fur seals) which can be smelt long before you see them (very fishy and stinky), basking in and around the significant rock arch formation it was the season for spotting pups and some very cute ones at that.

For Christmas we headed to the most western point of the island, West Bay. The campsite was barely big enough for the trailer and awning but a lovely quiet spot perched just above a clean sandy surf beach. The kids didn’t hesitate their wildlife search and within a few stone turns we had new pets – Scorpions! Yes, scorpions in all colours and sizes. The kids took great pleasure feeding them ants and showing them off to our neighbours and their kids. Santa did find us there though his reindeer appeared to have a serious scuffle with the local possums judging by the commotion during the night in the campsite.

Categories: @travelaustraliawithkids, Adventure, Animal Action, Australian Outback, Discover Australia, Explore Australia, Journey Narrative, Kids Travel, National Park, Natural World, Photography, South Australia, Travel, Travel Adventure, Walks | Tags: , , , , , , , | 9 Comments

Letter to Santa

Posted on December 23, 2014 by Fifty Toes Walkabout

With Christmas upon us we made a visit to a big shopping centre to fill up on supplies as we will be deep in a National Park with no access to shops for a week. We’re not sure whether Santa will be able to find us on our remote beach and we have been reminding the kids that this Christmas will be more low key than normal.

Letter to Santa

Letter to Santa

As we waited for Amanda to collect the last few items we watched kids having their photos with Santa, and they sat down at a table to colour in some pictures and write a letter to Santa. Xavier’s letter was so cute that I think expectations have been managed!

Then things started falling into place again. We had had to cancel our noon Sealink ferry to Kangaroo Island so we could get the windscreen fixed. We managed to rebook a 7pm one, which meant we couldn’t pick up our post, and would arrive in the dark to camp. Then we got a spot on the 4pm ferry, so we drove down early and got in the standby lane for the 3pm ferry, and snuck on. Santa paid us a visit on the ferry – well done and thank you Sealink, what a friendly and helpful crowd. We got to Kingscote Post Office 5 minutes before it closed and collected a few packages for the kids as well as their school work for next term.

Categories: Christmas, Discover Australia, Explore Australia, Journey Narrative, Kids Travel, National Park, South Australia, Travel, Travel Adventure | Tags: , , | 9 Comments

In search of a fearsome beast in the Otway Ranges!

Posted on December 15, 2014 by Fifty Toes Walkabout

A carnivorous loathsome beast hides in the rainforest in the Otway Ranges. It uses stealth and cunning to find its prey then devours them slowly. That’s what convinced Fifty Toes that they had to track one down and capture it. Using local knowledge we found out what areas it could be found. Driving out of Apollo Bay we found Koalas first at Kennet River. A quick stop for a photograph was required for our top 25 list (more on that later)

Koala

After the brief distraction we headed for Maits Rest rainforest walk. We walked as silently as a troop of baboons through the forest, looking everywhere, and just as the kids interest started waning, Oscar let out a cry “I’ve found one!”. Well not quite, but a very small part of one.

We chose a dirt track to take us to another likely site and 20km later we set out on the walk to Beauchamp falls

Beauchamp Falls

Beauchamp Falls

Within minutes our enthusiasm was raised as we started finding evidence of Victaphanta compacta. We laid a bounty down of 2 sweets for the first person to find a live one, and just as we arrived at the falls the cry went up – Amanda found it and with Oscar’s help he emerged with the famous Otway Black Snail in his hands, a species of carnivorous land snail that eats meat. Maybe not such a fearsome beast but a very unusual critter nonetheless. Mission accomplished!

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Categories: Animal Action, Australian Outback, Big Lap, Discover Australia, Explore Australia, Great Ocean Road, Journey Narrative, Kids Travel, National Park, Natural World, Photography | Tags: , , , , | 3 Comments

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