South Australia

Wilpena Pound, Flinders Ranges

Following serious rainfall many travellers had abandoned the Flinders so there were not many people around the campsite.

We climbed the hill behind the campsite to watch the sun set over Wilpena Pound then early to bed in preparation for a walk the next day. We chose the Mount Ohlssen Bagge walk so everyone could make it (Mary’s Peak walk had only re-opened that morning) but also it is renowned for all the reptiles that can be found along the walk – a big drawcard for the kids. A reasonably challenging walk for the kids was rewarded at the peak with outstanding views across Wilpena Pound, views all around and as promised many different lizards, dragons, skinks and goannas. It was also fairly surprising to see feral goats running along a ridge just below us, bleating cautiously as they edged along the cliff edge. Even here there was still ample evidence of the rain, with a significant water course flowing past the campsite.

The hot afternoon saw weary feet being soaked in the swimming pool. Checking in at the Information Centre the roads further north were starting to open up again, and the one I was immediately interested in was the road to Brachina Gorge. Time to edge further north. The Oodnadatta Track was still closed though.

 

 

Categories: Adventure, australia, Australian Outback, Big Lap, Camper Trailer, Discover Australia, Explore Australia, Great Ocean Road, Journey Narrative, Kids Travel, National Park, Photography, South Australia, Travel, Travel Adventure, Walks | Tags: , , | 4 Comments

Port Hughes & Magnetic Hill

Due to the rain up north and cooler weather there appeared to be a window of opportunity to head further north than originally planned at this time of year so we headed north with the Flinders in our sights.

First stop Port Hughes, as the kids said they were keen to see the blue swimmer crabs that they had been told about. With raging winds keeping everyone away from the jetty, Xavier, Oscar and I braved the elements, armed with crab nets and carp for bait. Soon enough we had enough blue swimmer crabs for dinner and one bonus catch was a Port Jackson shark that came up with Oscar’s net.

Blue Swimmer Dinner

Blue Swimmer Dinner

Next day saw us heading north for Wilpena Pound. Further north had just experienced 3 years worth of rain in 3 days so Amanda was stressing about going up there – I had started talking about doing the Oodnadatta Track by now as the outback with rain is spectacular as it initiates a new boom-bust cycle of life.

Magnetic Hill was a necessary diversion on the way, according to many write-ups and first hand recommendations was a must see. Fifty Toes felt strangely drawn to Magnetic Hill but ended up a feeling a little let down. The optical illusion appears like the car should roll forwards, when in fact the hill takes you backwards. Thumbs down from us. Onwards to Wilpena Pound.

Categories: Adventure, australia, Australian Outback, Big Lap, Discover Australia, Explore Australia, Journey Narrative, Kids Travel, Photography, South Australia, Travel, Travel Adventure | Tags: , , | 2 Comments

Innes National Park – Ship wrecks, Emus, Snakes and Shingleback lizards

Innes National Park occupies almost 100 sq km of land at the bottom of the Yorke Peninsula, due west across the Vincent Gulf from Adelaide. It used to be a favourite haunt of mine so it was a pleasure to take the family back.

Thankfully little has changed in the time that has past since I last visited. Surprisingly, only a handful of people were actually staying in the park. On our way down we had a quick close-up of the emus in an enclosure at Minlaton, but just as we entered the park we were greeted by an emu and two chicks strutting by the side of the road. From then on families of them were encountered at what seemed like every bend in the road, with anything from two to six youngsters, even marching towards us on the road at one point.

Shingleback lizards were to be found regularly, either by the side of the road sunning themselves, or rustling through the undergrowth around the camp at Pondalowie. The first one the kids found was infested with reptile ticks and Hannah insisted we remove them all with tweezers, for which the lizard appeared to be grateful, sitting patiently as they were removed one by one and professionally squashed by Xavier.

Ethel Beach is named after a shipwreck in 1920 whose rusting iron carcass still protrudes from the sand above the high water mark. In the shallows nearby lies another wreck, the Ferret, that used a rope tied to the Ethel wreck to save its passengers. After exploring a few caves at the end of the beach it was time to go fishing and looking for shells at Shell Beach. By the end of the day Hannah had caught three fish (sweep and zebra fish) and was happily baiting her own hook casting, landing, and even trying to unhook them herself. I caught a salmon for dinner off my favourite rocks, and Amanda and Xavier had accumulated a nice collection of shells.

Categories: Adventure, australia, Australian Outback, Beach, Big Lap, Discover Australia, Explore Australia, Journey Narrative, Kids Travel, National Park, Photography, South Australia, Travel, Travel Adventure | Tags: , , , | 2 Comments

Leaving Adelaide

Adelaide was a very welcome change of pace. We spent some time on Glenelg beach with friends Amanda, Dan and their kids, and caught up with our new friends we met in Stokes Bay, James, Liz, and their kids. Xavier kept leaving items of clothing and hats behind (possibly intentional) so we kept returning to collect them giving the kids further time to catch up.

Kids at Stokes Bay, KI

Kids at Stokes Bay, KI

We needed to give the Pajero a 150,000km service and our close friend, Deb, from Sydney insisted we stay with he parents Michelle and Ken for our last two days as it was near the garage, and we were very grateful once again for the hospitality.

Pigs in Rundle St RundleStMall

Being close to the city we decided to visit some of the sights. Amanda was keen      to revisit Central Markets so that was our first stop in the city. Tasting the produce was the order of the day and with our senses tantalised we then caught the tram to Rundle St Mall, watched some buskers, and headed to the museum.

Adelaide museum has to be one of the best we have ever visited ! Not only is it free entry but the exhibits are immaculately presented. The kids even managed to get on a holiday session on how to prepare butterfly and insect specimens. They got to pin their own butterflies and take them home. Whilst they were doing this I explored the Aboriginal, and Pacific galleries. The kids loved all the South Australian fauna sections and the information centre was quite hands on with items to place under microscopes, live creatures and some extremely enthusiastic staff who were very interested in Xavier’s fossilised whale tooth, that unfortunately we had neglected to bring with us. They did think from the photos though that it could be a sperm whale.

Before we knew it the car was serviced and it was time to move on again

Categories: @travelaustraliawithkids, Adventure, Car, Explore Australia, Journey Narrative, Kids Travel, Mitsubishi, South Australia, Travel, Travel Adventure | Tags: , , , , | 3 Comments

Adelaide again (the Big Smoke)

Back in Adelaide my Cave Diving buddy, Hugh, has kindly been accommodating us all while we get the car all serviced and roadworthy before heading west again. We have almost done 10,000 km already in just over two months and Hugh has come up with a more fuel efficient way of towing the Camprite Trailer. I like his enthusiasm but unless I can get 4 bikes hitched up for the family it will take us 10 years to complete our big lap! What do you reckon?

New Fat Bike Camprite tow!

New Fat Bike Camprite tow!

Thanks so much Hugh – it was great to catch up again after too long, and I hope it doesn’t take too long for you to recover from our visit. As we pass through the Nullarbor I suspect I will get a renewed interest in a future diving trip out there again.

Categories: Adventure, australia, Australian Outback, Camper Trailer, Discover Australia, Explore Australia, Journey Narrative, South Australia, Travel, Travel Adventure | Tags: , | Leave a comment

Seal Bay and more from Kangaroo Island

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Some of the other day trips we included in the Kangaroo Island trip were Raptor Domain, one of the kids favourites. We watched the three shows, Venom Pit, In-flight (bird show) and Fang-tastic, where the two very knowledgeable guides showed us local reptiles like scorpions, tiger snakes, and some less venomous ones (pythons, bearded dragons, sleepy lizards), and of course the bird show. We enjoyed waking up Casper the barn owl, seeing him pop out of his hollow tree then proceeding to hop across our knees, but the performances by the hobby and wedgetail eagle were also pretty impressive. Hannah, Oscar and Xavier all jumped up to hold a boobok owl.

Xavier and I went on a hunt for the rare Glossy Black Cockatoo, and found a dozen of them only a few kilometres from our camp. Only about 200 live on the whole island.

Next stop was Cliffords honey farm whose pure Ligurian bees were introduced from Italy by early settlers and today Kangaroo Island has the purest Ligurian bees, even exporting them back to Italy. We all tasted the honey ice-cream before moving on and yes it was good. Later that day whilst exploring a cave in D’Estrees Bay we found a cave housing a wild Ligurian beehive. On the same beach Xavier found what appears to be a fossilised whale tooth and this made his day – let us know what you think it is from the picture above.

Along D’Estree Bay, in Cape Gantheaume Conservation Park we stopped to see the point where Ospreys have nested for 150 years. A huge nest sits on top of a flat rocky headland that just out at the end of the beach. Two chicks sat patiently in the nest awaiting the return of their parents, hopefully with a feed of fish. When I last visited 17 years ago the same nest had a different two chicks sitting there too.

Then we had to visit Seal Bay, home to the Australian Sea lion, where we wandered onto the beach to get a closer view of the sea lions who come to shore after 3 days swimming and feeding for a well deserved rest. At one end of the beach a boardwalk provides views of a Humpback Whale skeleton, placed in the dunes after the dead calf washed ashore in the 1980s. We took a minor detour on the way home to take in the azure waters and picturesque Vivonne Bay – we all loved Kangaroo Island and will be back!

Categories: Animal Action, Australian Outback, Discover Australia, Explore Australia, Journey Narrative, Kids Travel, Photography, South Australia, Travel, Travel Adventure | Tags: , , , , , , , , | 8 Comments

Stokes Bay, Kangaroo Island

Expecting a rush for campsites after Christmas we left Flinders Chase NP and headed for Stokes Bay on the north coast. Having not had much company so far the campsite looked pretty crowded but we were shown a little slot under a tree and squeezed in expecting to stay a couple of days as we were accustomed.

We ended up staying a week due to the warm welcome that the locals extended to us and the stunning beach, accessed through a cave, that has a natural rockpool keeping the kids busy for days.

Our neighbours Thelma and Terry Bennett, KI locals had been coming with the extended family for years, and Terry kindly took me out on his boat a couple of times introducing me to using braided line to catch the huge King George Whiting that frequent the waters down here. He then shared a bag full of the sweetest juiciest grapefruits from his garden – the best way to start the day is a cold grapefruit half! Our experience just improved with other relatives giving us a big piece of tuna steak fileted straight from the morning’s catch – that made several meals from ceviche to plain quick pan seared.

The kids took a couple of days but then made a few good friends around the campsite, more rockpool buddies to explore the caves and swim throughs with their masks, fins and snorkels. I managed to snag a few crayfish that made very pleasant dinners and our days passed very peacefully over the festive season.

 

Dinner

Dinner

New Years Eve saw us on the beach with a roaring fire and midnight fireworks lighting up the calm seas, the latter only possible due to favourable winds. All Fifty Toes even made it to see in the New Year, though the beach party continued on until the wee hours. Once again we had been given a truly local KI welcome, making this one of our favourite spots so far.

Then to top it off our new friends James and Liz delivered us 2 huge pieces of home-made haloumi cheese, from Jersey cows. We tried it deep fried two ways, one with tomato and the other with a squeeze of lemon – both delicious!

Categories: Adventure, australia, Australian Outback, Beach, Big Lap, Discover Australia, Explore Australia, Journey Narrative, Kids Travel, Photography, South Australia, Travel, Travel Adventure | Tags: , | 1 Comment

Flinders Chase National Park, Kangaroo Island

A very belated Happy New Year to all. Here’s hoping 2015 brings you all good health, happiness, and plenty of adventure!

Flinders Chase National Park occupies a large proportion the western end of Kangaroo Island, and when I visited Rocky River many years ago it was abundant with the stocky Kangaroo Island kangaroos, echidnas, koalas, Tammar wallabies, snakes and much more. In 2007 a bushfire swept through the park devastating two thirds of the bush, so things had changed and I think Rocky River, the centre of the park has been rebuilt.

Wildlife still abounds, though not quite as intrusively as previously. The animals are still there though it seemed in smaller numbers. Birdlife proliferates around the centre at Rocky River and a number of short walks around the centre provides the visitor with opportunities to see the crimson rosellas, cape barren geese, scarlet robins and lots more. The visitors centre kept the kids busy for several hours with their touch tables of local animal skins, information about the megafauna that used inhabit the area tens of thousand years ago. The centre also provides a kit bag of tools for the kids to explore the sandpit. They got to experience the thrills of archaeologists, digging up/exposing megafauna bones in a 5 x 3m pit, a great learning experience.

We had to visit Remarkable Rocks which look like a giant has scattered unusually sculptured rocks on a solid granite base. The forces of erosion together with orange lichen growth make it a imposing site perched above the southern ocean backdrop.

Nearby, Admirals Arch hosts a colony of Long Nosed Fur Seals (previously NZ fur seals) which can be smelt long before you see them (very fishy and stinky), basking in and around the significant rock arch formation it was the season for spotting pups and some very cute ones at that.

For Christmas we headed to the most western point of the island, West Bay. The campsite was barely big enough for the trailer and awning but a lovely quiet spot perched just above a clean sandy surf beach. The kids didn’t hesitate their wildlife search and within a few stone turns we had new pets – Scorpions! Yes, scorpions in all colours and sizes. The kids took great pleasure feeding them ants and showing them off to our neighbours and their kids. Santa did find us there though his reindeer appeared to have a serious scuffle with the local possums judging by the commotion during the night in the campsite.

Categories: @travelaustraliawithkids, Adventure, Animal Action, Australian Outback, Discover Australia, Explore Australia, Journey Narrative, Kids Travel, National Park, Natural World, Photography, South Australia, Travel, Travel Adventure, Walks | Tags: , , , , , , , | 9 Comments

Letter to Santa

With Christmas upon us we made a visit to a big shopping centre to fill up on supplies as we will be deep in a National Park with no access to shops for a week. We’re not sure whether Santa will be able to find us on our remote beach and we have been reminding the kids that this Christmas will be more low key than normal.

Letter to Santa

Letter to Santa

As we waited for Amanda to collect the last few items we watched kids having their photos with Santa, and they sat down at a table to colour in some pictures and write a letter to Santa. Xavier’s letter was so cute that I think expectations have been managed!

Then things started falling into place again. We had had to cancel our noon Sealink ferry to Kangaroo Island so we could get the windscreen fixed. We managed to rebook a 7pm one, which meant we couldn’t pick up our post, and would arrive in the dark to camp. Then we got a spot on the 4pm ferry, so we drove down early and got in the standby lane for the 3pm ferry, and snuck on. Santa paid us a visit on the ferry – well done and thank you Sealink, what a friendly and helpful crowd. We got to Kingscote Post Office 5 minutes before it closed and collected a few packages for the kids as well as their school work for next term.

Categories: Christmas, Discover Australia, Explore Australia, Journey Narrative, Kids Travel, National Park, South Australia, Travel, Travel Adventure | Tags: , , | 9 Comments

Towards Adelaide – whistle stop touring

Unfortunately with a deadline to meet for another ferry we had to rush from Ewens Ponds up the coast.

First stop was Carpenter Rocks where a bright red lighthouse at nearby Cape Banks alerts passing boats to the treacherous limestone rocks that line the shore. This spot was where in 1802 English Botanist Joseph Banks and Frenchman Nicholas Baudin passed one another as they mapped the coastline. A shipwreck on the beach and witnessing an unfortunate diving accident when we arrived all reminded us of how much respect the rugged coastline here deserves. We did witness a big fur seal haul itself up onto the rocks at dusk then disappear into a craggy hole to rest for the night.

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Heading north we flew through Mount Gambier but not before I showed everyone the Blue Lake, a remnant from ancient volcanic times in the region, and a few of my old cave-diving haunts, like Allendale East, where the road splits either side of the cave in a tiny town, Little Blue and Fossil Cave.

We stopped in Little Dip Conservation Park, literally, because we got bogged deep in sand on the coastal track. After two hours of digging and making slow progress, with several kilometres still to go, and Christmas Carols beckoning in nearby Robe, I had to concede defeat and turn around. A good learning opportunity for the kids that they responded well to, but we sustained a significant ding to a panel on the car trying to turn it around. We made the carols and enjoyed a rare treat of fish and chips.

The next day we back-tracked to the Coonawarra to meet the Prof at Majella Wines. We got a tour around the winery and an obligatory tasting. The first wine in 2 months for me and it tasted magnificent.

 

Stocked for Christmas we headed up to Naracoorte to visit the World Heritage cave site and visited the Victoria Cave where a massive bone deposit of Australian animals, including mega-fauna, lies documenting some 350,000 years of history.

Then back to the coast, along small roads, watching emus running through the fields as we went, to see a big icon. The Kingston Big Lobster is an impressive construction, that we spotted from some distance out of town, lurching above the treeline.

The Big Lobster

The Big Lobster

It was late but we were keen to stop in the Coorong and we pressed on up the coast arriving much later than normal at 42 Mile Crossing. After a late dinner, the kids went to bed as dusk fell and I noticed we had a visitor. I set the camera up to catch him, came oh so close and got within 2 metres of him, but my flash scared him off before the shutter went. Waking up the next morning 2 shoes were missing, courtesy of Fantastic Mr Fox! It couldn’t take a pair but nicked one of Oscars and one of Xaviers. If I hadn’t retrieved Hannah’s before I went to bed it could have been the set! We found some foxes earths around the campsite but no sign of the shoes.

Spot the problem here

Spot the problem here

Next day we headed north to explore the shores of Lake Alexandrina, where the river Murray meets the coast. The birdlife was fabulous and we spotted quite a new species for the twitching list. At Narrung we caught a ferry across one part of the lake to Point Malcolm, which hosts the only inland freshwater lighthouse in the Southern Hemisphere, that was used when log barges used to ply the waters.

Then things went pear-shaped and we ended up with a broken windscreen late on Sat afternoon. With a ferry to catch at midday on Monday it was starting to look like we might be driving around for the next two weeks with a broken windscreen!

Categories: 4WD, Adventure, Beach, Camper Trailer, Discover Australia, Explore Australia, Journey Narrative, Kids Travel, Offroad, South Australia, Travel, Travel Adventure | Tags: , , , , , , , , , | 5 Comments

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