Australian Outback

Port Hughes & Magnetic Hill

Due to the rain up north and cooler weather there appeared to be a window of opportunity to head further north than originally planned at this time of year so we headed north with the Flinders in our sights.

First stop Port Hughes, as the kids said they were keen to see the blue swimmer crabs that they had been told about. With raging winds keeping everyone away from the jetty, Xavier, Oscar and I braved the elements, armed with crab nets and carp for bait. Soon enough we had enough blue swimmer crabs for dinner and one bonus catch was a Port Jackson shark that came up with Oscar’s net.

Blue Swimmer Dinner

Blue Swimmer Dinner

Next day saw us heading north for Wilpena Pound. Further north had just experienced 3 years worth of rain in 3 days so Amanda was stressing about going up there – I had started talking about doing the Oodnadatta Track by now as the outback with rain is spectacular as it initiates a new boom-bust cycle of life.

Magnetic Hill was a necessary diversion on the way, according to many write-ups and first hand recommendations was a must see. Fifty Toes felt strangely drawn to Magnetic Hill but ended up a feeling a little let down. The optical illusion appears like the car should roll forwards, when in fact the hill takes you backwards. Thumbs down from us. Onwards to Wilpena Pound.

Categories: Adventure, australia, Australian Outback, Big Lap, Discover Australia, Explore Australia, Journey Narrative, Kids Travel, Photography, South Australia, Travel, Travel Adventure | Tags: , , | 2 Comments

Innes National Park – Ship wrecks, Emus, Snakes and Shingleback lizards

Innes National Park occupies almost 100 sq km of land at the bottom of the Yorke Peninsula, due west across the Vincent Gulf from Adelaide. It used to be a favourite haunt of mine so it was a pleasure to take the family back.

Thankfully little has changed in the time that has past since I last visited. Surprisingly, only a handful of people were actually staying in the park. On our way down we had a quick close-up of the emus in an enclosure at Minlaton, but just as we entered the park we were greeted by an emu and two chicks strutting by the side of the road. From then on families of them were encountered at what seemed like every bend in the road, with anything from two to six youngsters, even marching towards us on the road at one point.

Shingleback lizards were to be found regularly, either by the side of the road sunning themselves, or rustling through the undergrowth around the camp at Pondalowie. The first one the kids found was infested with reptile ticks and Hannah insisted we remove them all with tweezers, for which the lizard appeared to be grateful, sitting patiently as they were removed one by one and professionally squashed by Xavier.

Ethel Beach is named after a shipwreck in 1920 whose rusting iron carcass still protrudes from the sand above the high water mark. In the shallows nearby lies another wreck, the Ferret, that used a rope tied to the Ethel wreck to save its passengers. After exploring a few caves at the end of the beach it was time to go fishing and looking for shells at Shell Beach. By the end of the day Hannah had caught three fish (sweep and zebra fish) and was happily baiting her own hook casting, landing, and even trying to unhook them herself. I caught a salmon for dinner off my favourite rocks, and Amanda and Xavier had accumulated a nice collection of shells.

Categories: Adventure, australia, Australian Outback, Beach, Big Lap, Discover Australia, Explore Australia, Journey Narrative, Kids Travel, National Park, Photography, South Australia, Travel, Travel Adventure | Tags: , , , | 2 Comments

Adelaide again (the Big Smoke)

Back in Adelaide my Cave Diving buddy, Hugh, has kindly been accommodating us all while we get the car all serviced and roadworthy before heading west again. We have almost done 10,000 km already in just over two months and Hugh has come up with a more fuel efficient way of towing the Camprite Trailer. I like his enthusiasm but unless I can get 4 bikes hitched up for the family it will take us 10 years to complete our big lap! What do you reckon?

New Fat Bike Camprite tow!

New Fat Bike Camprite tow!

Thanks so much Hugh – it was great to catch up again after too long, and I hope it doesn’t take too long for you to recover from our visit. As we pass through the Nullarbor I suspect I will get a renewed interest in a future diving trip out there again.

Categories: Adventure, australia, Australian Outback, Camper Trailer, Discover Australia, Explore Australia, Journey Narrative, South Australia, Travel, Travel Adventure | Tags: , | Leave a comment

Seal Bay and more from Kangaroo Island

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Some of the other day trips we included in the Kangaroo Island trip were Raptor Domain, one of the kids favourites. We watched the three shows, Venom Pit, In-flight (bird show) and Fang-tastic, where the two very knowledgeable guides showed us local reptiles like scorpions, tiger snakes, and some less venomous ones (pythons, bearded dragons, sleepy lizards), and of course the bird show. We enjoyed waking up Casper the barn owl, seeing him pop out of his hollow tree then proceeding to hop across our knees, but the performances by the hobby and wedgetail eagle were also pretty impressive. Hannah, Oscar and Xavier all jumped up to hold a boobok owl.

Xavier and I went on a hunt for the rare Glossy Black Cockatoo, and found a dozen of them only a few kilometres from our camp. Only about 200 live on the whole island.

Next stop was Cliffords honey farm whose pure Ligurian bees were introduced from Italy by early settlers and today Kangaroo Island has the purest Ligurian bees, even exporting them back to Italy. We all tasted the honey ice-cream before moving on and yes it was good. Later that day whilst exploring a cave in D’Estrees Bay we found a cave housing a wild Ligurian beehive. On the same beach Xavier found what appears to be a fossilised whale tooth and this made his day – let us know what you think it is from the picture above.

Along D’Estree Bay, in Cape Gantheaume Conservation Park we stopped to see the point where Ospreys have nested for 150 years. A huge nest sits on top of a flat rocky headland that just out at the end of the beach. Two chicks sat patiently in the nest awaiting the return of their parents, hopefully with a feed of fish. When I last visited 17 years ago the same nest had a different two chicks sitting there too.

Then we had to visit Seal Bay, home to the Australian Sea lion, where we wandered onto the beach to get a closer view of the sea lions who come to shore after 3 days swimming and feeding for a well deserved rest. At one end of the beach a boardwalk provides views of a Humpback Whale skeleton, placed in the dunes after the dead calf washed ashore in the 1980s. We took a minor detour on the way home to take in the azure waters and picturesque Vivonne Bay – we all loved Kangaroo Island and will be back!

Categories: Animal Action, Australian Outback, Discover Australia, Explore Australia, Journey Narrative, Kids Travel, Photography, South Australia, Travel, Travel Adventure | Tags: , , , , , , , , | 8 Comments

Stokes Bay, Kangaroo Island

Expecting a rush for campsites after Christmas we left Flinders Chase NP and headed for Stokes Bay on the north coast. Having not had much company so far the campsite looked pretty crowded but we were shown a little slot under a tree and squeezed in expecting to stay a couple of days as we were accustomed.

We ended up staying a week due to the warm welcome that the locals extended to us and the stunning beach, accessed through a cave, that has a natural rockpool keeping the kids busy for days.

Our neighbours Thelma and Terry Bennett, KI locals had been coming with the extended family for years, and Terry kindly took me out on his boat a couple of times introducing me to using braided line to catch the huge King George Whiting that frequent the waters down here. He then shared a bag full of the sweetest juiciest grapefruits from his garden – the best way to start the day is a cold grapefruit half! Our experience just improved with other relatives giving us a big piece of tuna steak fileted straight from the morning’s catch – that made several meals from ceviche to plain quick pan seared.

The kids took a couple of days but then made a few good friends around the campsite, more rockpool buddies to explore the caves and swim throughs with their masks, fins and snorkels. I managed to snag a few crayfish that made very pleasant dinners and our days passed very peacefully over the festive season.

 

Dinner

Dinner

New Years Eve saw us on the beach with a roaring fire and midnight fireworks lighting up the calm seas, the latter only possible due to favourable winds. All Fifty Toes even made it to see in the New Year, though the beach party continued on until the wee hours. Once again we had been given a truly local KI welcome, making this one of our favourite spots so far.

Then to top it off our new friends James and Liz delivered us 2 huge pieces of home-made haloumi cheese, from Jersey cows. We tried it deep fried two ways, one with tomato and the other with a squeeze of lemon – both delicious!

Categories: Adventure, australia, Australian Outback, Beach, Big Lap, Discover Australia, Explore Australia, Journey Narrative, Kids Travel, Photography, South Australia, Travel, Travel Adventure | Tags: , | 1 Comment

Flinders Chase National Park, Kangaroo Island

A very belated Happy New Year to all. Here’s hoping 2015 brings you all good health, happiness, and plenty of adventure!

Flinders Chase National Park occupies a large proportion the western end of Kangaroo Island, and when I visited Rocky River many years ago it was abundant with the stocky Kangaroo Island kangaroos, echidnas, koalas, Tammar wallabies, snakes and much more. In 2007 a bushfire swept through the park devastating two thirds of the bush, so things had changed and I think Rocky River, the centre of the park has been rebuilt.

Wildlife still abounds, though not quite as intrusively as previously. The animals are still there though it seemed in smaller numbers. Birdlife proliferates around the centre at Rocky River and a number of short walks around the centre provides the visitor with opportunities to see the crimson rosellas, cape barren geese, scarlet robins and lots more. The visitors centre kept the kids busy for several hours with their touch tables of local animal skins, information about the megafauna that used inhabit the area tens of thousand years ago. The centre also provides a kit bag of tools for the kids to explore the sandpit. They got to experience the thrills of archaeologists, digging up/exposing megafauna bones in a 5 x 3m pit, a great learning experience.

We had to visit Remarkable Rocks which look like a giant has scattered unusually sculptured rocks on a solid granite base. The forces of erosion together with orange lichen growth make it a imposing site perched above the southern ocean backdrop.

Nearby, Admirals Arch hosts a colony of Long Nosed Fur Seals (previously NZ fur seals) which can be smelt long before you see them (very fishy and stinky), basking in and around the significant rock arch formation it was the season for spotting pups and some very cute ones at that.

For Christmas we headed to the most western point of the island, West Bay. The campsite was barely big enough for the trailer and awning but a lovely quiet spot perched just above a clean sandy surf beach. The kids didn’t hesitate their wildlife search and within a few stone turns we had new pets – Scorpions! Yes, scorpions in all colours and sizes. The kids took great pleasure feeding them ants and showing them off to our neighbours and their kids. Santa did find us there though his reindeer appeared to have a serious scuffle with the local possums judging by the commotion during the night in the campsite.

Categories: @travelaustraliawithkids, Adventure, Animal Action, Australian Outback, Discover Australia, Explore Australia, Journey Narrative, Kids Travel, National Park, Natural World, Photography, South Australia, Travel, Travel Adventure, Walks | Tags: , , , , , , , | 9 Comments

Ewens Ponds

Our next stop was to a favourite of mine, Ewens Ponds, located near to the fishing town of Port Macdonnell. I had to show the kids the pristine waters that bubble out of the sandy bottom and flow down eight mile creek to the sea. The water is very cold though reaching 15-16 degrees, if you’re lucky.

Freshwater Galaxids, Ewens pygmy perch (Nannoperca variegate) and even black fin bream can all be found relatively easily in the ponds, though in the cold water they proved harder to photograph. The big spiny freshwater crayfish are always a highlight. This little conservation area is a gem, and even whilst snorkelling through the three ponds I could hear loads of birdlife in the surrounding wetlands and reeds.

Categories: Adventure, Animal Action, Australian Outback, Big Lap, Discover Australia, Explore Australia, Journey Narrative, Photography, SA, South Australia, Travel, Travel Adventure | Tags: , , , , , | Leave a comment

The Great Ocean Road icons

Categories: Adventure, Australian Outback, Beach, Discover Australia, Explore Australia, Journey Narrative, Kids Travel, Photography, Travel, Travel Adventure, Victoria | Tags: , , , | 1 Comment

The Great Ocean Road – Cape Otway Lighthouse

Having been diverted off the Great Ocean Road to hunt the Black Snail we resumed the road heading for Cape Otway where Hannah’s teacher had given us maps guaranteed to locate Koalas. It was late in the day so we went straight to the Lighthouse and set up our camp there. Despite all the tourists visiting we were the only ones staying there in a very picturesque outlook just behind the lighthouse.

CapeOtwayCamp

Cape Otway Camp

We enjoyed the tranquillity so much we stayed two nights, and there was plenty to do there.

This was the first lighthouse we have had the chance to go inside and we had the privilege to meet Pat, a lighthouse man, and a dying breed now all lighthouses are automated. He was not shy sharing a few stories about peers who had been driven mad by the solitude, and one as recent as in the 1980’s who had to be subdued and tied up with ropes when he ran around the island trying to shoot everyone. On the trip back to the mainland he was strapped to the main mast to stop him terrorising the crew.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

He showed us the narrow platform they used to clean the windows from with no rails or safety gear, over 60m up. In strong winds he joked that he would make the assistant clean on the windy side. Having been the last lighthouse keeper at the Point Hicks lighthouse that we visited in Croajingolong it was fascinating listening to his stories for an hour so in the afternoon. Thanks Pat.

The next day we visited the aboriginal hut hidden in the bush and met Dale. We spent hours with him talking about traditional plants, medicinal and bushtucker, how the traditional hunting weapons were used and he gave us insight into the native countries, tribal structure, how each tribe speaks 4 languages, and how message sticks were used when entering neighbouring territory. The kids painted abalone shells and we spent many hours there. Thanks Dale for sharing so much with us. It really made the stay special meeting these people.

 

Categories: Australian Outback, Camper Trailer, Discover Australia, Explore Australia, Great Ocean Road, Journey Narrative, Kids Travel, Photography, Travel, Travel Adventure, Victoria | Tags: , , , | 5 Comments

In search of a fearsome beast in the Otway Ranges!

A carnivorous loathsome beast hides in the rainforest in the Otway Ranges. It uses stealth and cunning to find its prey then devours them slowly. That’s what convinced Fifty Toes that they had to track one down and capture it. Using local knowledge we found out what areas it could be found. Driving out of Apollo Bay we found Koalas first at Kennet River. A quick stop for a photograph was required for our top 25 list (more on that later)

Koala

After the brief distraction we headed for Maits Rest rainforest walk. We walked as silently as a troop of baboons through the forest, looking everywhere, and just as the kids interest started waning, Oscar let out a cry “I’ve found one!”. Well not quite, but a very small part of one.

We chose a dirt track to take us to another likely site and 20km later we set out on the walk to Beauchamp falls

Beauchamp Falls

Beauchamp Falls

Within minutes our enthusiasm was raised as we started finding evidence of Victaphanta compacta. We laid a bounty down of 2 sweets for the first person to find a live one, and just as we arrived at the falls the cry went up – Amanda found it and with Oscar’s help he emerged with the famous Otway Black Snail in his hands, a species of carnivorous land snail that eats meat. Maybe not such a fearsome beast but a very unusual critter nonetheless. Mission accomplished!

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Categories: Animal Action, Australian Outback, Big Lap, Discover Australia, Explore Australia, Great Ocean Road, Journey Narrative, Kids Travel, National Park, Natural World, Photography | Tags: , , , , | 3 Comments

Create a free website or blog at WordPress.com.