Big Lap

Wilpena Pound, Flinders Ranges

Following serious rainfall many travellers had abandoned the Flinders so there were not many people around the campsite.

We climbed the hill behind the campsite to watch the sun set over Wilpena Pound then early to bed in preparation for a walk the next day. We chose the Mount Ohlssen Bagge walk so everyone could make it (Mary’s Peak walk had only re-opened that morning) but also it is renowned for all the reptiles that can be found along the walk – a big drawcard for the kids. A reasonably challenging walk for the kids was rewarded at the peak with outstanding views across Wilpena Pound, views all around and as promised many different lizards, dragons, skinks and goannas. It was also fairly surprising to see feral goats running along a ridge just below us, bleating cautiously as they edged along the cliff edge. Even here there was still ample evidence of the rain, with a significant water course flowing past the campsite.

The hot afternoon saw weary feet being soaked in the swimming pool. Checking in at the Information Centre the roads further north were starting to open up again, and the one I was immediately interested in was the road to Brachina Gorge. Time to edge further north. The Oodnadatta Track was still closed though.

 

 

Categories: Adventure, australia, Australian Outback, Big Lap, Camper Trailer, Discover Australia, Explore Australia, Great Ocean Road, Journey Narrative, Kids Travel, National Park, Photography, South Australia, Travel, Travel Adventure, Walks | Tags: , , | 4 Comments

Port Hughes & Magnetic Hill

Due to the rain up north and cooler weather there appeared to be a window of opportunity to head further north than originally planned at this time of year so we headed north with the Flinders in our sights.

First stop Port Hughes, as the kids said they were keen to see the blue swimmer crabs that they had been told about. With raging winds keeping everyone away from the jetty, Xavier, Oscar and I braved the elements, armed with crab nets and carp for bait. Soon enough we had enough blue swimmer crabs for dinner and one bonus catch was a Port Jackson shark that came up with Oscar’s net.

Blue Swimmer Dinner

Blue Swimmer Dinner

Next day saw us heading north for Wilpena Pound. Further north had just experienced 3 years worth of rain in 3 days so Amanda was stressing about going up there – I had started talking about doing the Oodnadatta Track by now as the outback with rain is spectacular as it initiates a new boom-bust cycle of life.

Magnetic Hill was a necessary diversion on the way, according to many write-ups and first hand recommendations was a must see. Fifty Toes felt strangely drawn to Magnetic Hill but ended up a feeling a little let down. The optical illusion appears like the car should roll forwards, when in fact the hill takes you backwards. Thumbs down from us. Onwards to Wilpena Pound.

Categories: Adventure, australia, Australian Outback, Big Lap, Discover Australia, Explore Australia, Journey Narrative, Kids Travel, Photography, South Australia, Travel, Travel Adventure | Tags: , , | 2 Comments

Innes National Park – Ship wrecks, Emus, Snakes and Shingleback lizards

Innes National Park occupies almost 100 sq km of land at the bottom of the Yorke Peninsula, due west across the Vincent Gulf from Adelaide. It used to be a favourite haunt of mine so it was a pleasure to take the family back.

Thankfully little has changed in the time that has past since I last visited. Surprisingly, only a handful of people were actually staying in the park. On our way down we had a quick close-up of the emus in an enclosure at Minlaton, but just as we entered the park we were greeted by an emu and two chicks strutting by the side of the road. From then on families of them were encountered at what seemed like every bend in the road, with anything from two to six youngsters, even marching towards us on the road at one point.

Shingleback lizards were to be found regularly, either by the side of the road sunning themselves, or rustling through the undergrowth around the camp at Pondalowie. The first one the kids found was infested with reptile ticks and Hannah insisted we remove them all with tweezers, for which the lizard appeared to be grateful, sitting patiently as they were removed one by one and professionally squashed by Xavier.

Ethel Beach is named after a shipwreck in 1920 whose rusting iron carcass still protrudes from the sand above the high water mark. In the shallows nearby lies another wreck, the Ferret, that used a rope tied to the Ethel wreck to save its passengers. After exploring a few caves at the end of the beach it was time to go fishing and looking for shells at Shell Beach. By the end of the day Hannah had caught three fish (sweep and zebra fish) and was happily baiting her own hook casting, landing, and even trying to unhook them herself. I caught a salmon for dinner off my favourite rocks, and Amanda and Xavier had accumulated a nice collection of shells.

Categories: Adventure, australia, Australian Outback, Beach, Big Lap, Discover Australia, Explore Australia, Journey Narrative, Kids Travel, National Park, Photography, South Australia, Travel, Travel Adventure | Tags: , , , | 2 Comments

Stokes Bay, Kangaroo Island

Expecting a rush for campsites after Christmas we left Flinders Chase NP and headed for Stokes Bay on the north coast. Having not had much company so far the campsite looked pretty crowded but we were shown a little slot under a tree and squeezed in expecting to stay a couple of days as we were accustomed.

We ended up staying a week due to the warm welcome that the locals extended to us and the stunning beach, accessed through a cave, that has a natural rockpool keeping the kids busy for days.

Our neighbours Thelma and Terry Bennett, KI locals had been coming with the extended family for years, and Terry kindly took me out on his boat a couple of times introducing me to using braided line to catch the huge King George Whiting that frequent the waters down here. He then shared a bag full of the sweetest juiciest grapefruits from his garden – the best way to start the day is a cold grapefruit half! Our experience just improved with other relatives giving us a big piece of tuna steak fileted straight from the morning’s catch – that made several meals from ceviche to plain quick pan seared.

The kids took a couple of days but then made a few good friends around the campsite, more rockpool buddies to explore the caves and swim throughs with their masks, fins and snorkels. I managed to snag a few crayfish that made very pleasant dinners and our days passed very peacefully over the festive season.

 

Dinner

Dinner

New Years Eve saw us on the beach with a roaring fire and midnight fireworks lighting up the calm seas, the latter only possible due to favourable winds. All Fifty Toes even made it to see in the New Year, though the beach party continued on until the wee hours. Once again we had been given a truly local KI welcome, making this one of our favourite spots so far.

Then to top it off our new friends James and Liz delivered us 2 huge pieces of home-made haloumi cheese, from Jersey cows. We tried it deep fried two ways, one with tomato and the other with a squeeze of lemon – both delicious!

Categories: Adventure, australia, Australian Outback, Beach, Big Lap, Discover Australia, Explore Australia, Journey Narrative, Kids Travel, Photography, South Australia, Travel, Travel Adventure | Tags: , | 1 Comment

Ewens Ponds

Our next stop was to a favourite of mine, Ewens Ponds, located near to the fishing town of Port Macdonnell. I had to show the kids the pristine waters that bubble out of the sandy bottom and flow down eight mile creek to the sea. The water is very cold though reaching 15-16 degrees, if you’re lucky.

Freshwater Galaxids, Ewens pygmy perch (Nannoperca variegate) and even black fin bream can all be found relatively easily in the ponds, though in the cold water they proved harder to photograph. The big spiny freshwater crayfish are always a highlight. This little conservation area is a gem, and even whilst snorkelling through the three ponds I could hear loads of birdlife in the surrounding wetlands and reeds.

Categories: Adventure, Animal Action, Australian Outback, Big Lap, Discover Australia, Explore Australia, Journey Narrative, Photography, SA, South Australia, Travel, Travel Adventure | Tags: , , , , , | Leave a comment

In search of a fearsome beast in the Otway Ranges!

A carnivorous loathsome beast hides in the rainforest in the Otway Ranges. It uses stealth and cunning to find its prey then devours them slowly. That’s what convinced Fifty Toes that they had to track one down and capture it. Using local knowledge we found out what areas it could be found. Driving out of Apollo Bay we found Koalas first at Kennet River. A quick stop for a photograph was required for our top 25 list (more on that later)

Koala

After the brief distraction we headed for Maits Rest rainforest walk. We walked as silently as a troop of baboons through the forest, looking everywhere, and just as the kids interest started waning, Oscar let out a cry “I’ve found one!”. Well not quite, but a very small part of one.

We chose a dirt track to take us to another likely site and 20km later we set out on the walk to Beauchamp falls

Beauchamp Falls

Beauchamp Falls

Within minutes our enthusiasm was raised as we started finding evidence of Victaphanta compacta. We laid a bounty down of 2 sweets for the first person to find a live one, and just as we arrived at the falls the cry went up – Amanda found it and with Oscar’s help he emerged with the famous Otway Black Snail in his hands, a species of carnivorous land snail that eats meat. Maybe not such a fearsome beast but a very unusual critter nonetheless. Mission accomplished!

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Categories: Animal Action, Australian Outback, Big Lap, Discover Australia, Explore Australia, Great Ocean Road, Journey Narrative, Kids Travel, National Park, Natural World, Photography | Tags: , , , , | 3 Comments

Narawntapu National Park

Narawntapu National Park hadn’t been on our radar but when Hannah rejected our camp in the middle of the river at garden island near Clarence, after we had set up camp I may add, but we stumbled upon it as we headed towards Devonport, with only a few days left before we leave Tasmania.

NarawntapuNP

Dubbed the Serengeti of Tasmania it comes as no surprise to see vast expanses of short grassland, but instead of wilderbeest, lions, and elephants, this national park is full of marsupials. Forresters Kangaroos, Bennetts Wallabies, Pademelons, Bettongs and Potoroos all can be found here. I still can’t work out which is which but the ranger told us the rule of thumb was whether they are knee or waist high, and bigger or smaller than this, but there are so many joeys around too they are starting to all look the same. The wetlands are a haven for bird lovers and one of Tasmania’s top 60 short walks is the Springlawn walk to the bird hide in the middle of the lake. Our camp was surrounded by wombat holes, but no sign of them yet!

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The boardwalk takes you past swamps, melaleuca and silver banksia forest, then on to the lakehide. Black swans and coot were everywhere but also to be spotted were Australasian grebe, maned duck, pacific black duck, egrets, herons, blue billed duck, musk duck, hoary-headed grebe and many others.

Just beyond the hide the path takes you on a bush walk to the top of Archers Knob, where commanding views over the park can be enjoyed, including the full length of Bakers Beach. This beach has millions of soldier crabs parading the shoreline at low tide and the kids had a competition to see who could find the most shark and ray eggs. They found at least 4 different species.

I also spotted my first snake here – a tiger snake basking in the sun on the walking path.

The poor wombats are suffering from Wombat mange caused by mites and seeing a wombat with very little fur staggering around during the day, covered in flies was not a pretty sight.

Categories: 4WD, Adventure, Animal Action, Australian Outback, Beach, Big Lap, Discover Australia, Explore Australia, Journey Narrative, Kids Travel, Location, National Park, Natural World, Photography, TAS, Tasmania, Travel, Travel Adventure, Twitcher, Walks | Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , | 6 Comments

Eddystone Point and Deep Creek

On the far eastern point of Tasmania, above the Bay of Fires, within Mt. William national park is Eddystone Point. Our new home was the Deep Creek campsite several kilometres away, where a handful of fishing shacks line the shoreline. A short walk from the campsite up the shallow creek takes you to a large deep pool that would be great in summer but given the weather we have been experiencing no-one was up for the challenge to jump in.

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A quick visit to the lighthouse built at the end of the 19th century was followed by a visit to nearby Larc beach. Recent storms had laid bountiful piles of seaweed on the beach, but on closer inspection one pile turned out to be a particularly gruesome seal carcass. The kids loved this, though were a little disappointed that it wasn’t a Thylacine (extinct Tasmanian Tiger). It was so badly decomposed all we saw at first were the big canine teeth and fur. With storm clouds approaching we had a quick look at the Bay of Fires beach, recommended as being one of the whitest sands to be found, before returning to camp. When we returned the following morning Xavier found a Hooded Plover nest with two eggs in it.

Categories: 4WD, Adventure, Animal Action, Australian Outback, Beach, Big Lap, Camper Trailer, Discover Australia, Explore Australia, Journey Narrative, Kids Travel, Location, National Park, Natural World, Offroad, Photography, TAS, Tasmania, Travel, Travel Adventure, Twitcher, Walks | Tags: , , , , , | Leave a comment

Blue Tier Forest – Goblin Forest Walk

The Blue Tier forest reserve sits off the road between St. Helens and Weldborough, and has a number of walks but we couldn’t resist the name of one of Tasmania’s top 60 short walks. At around 750m high the hills were shrouded in cloud when we arrived. Entering the forest took us into a fairy tale world where branches and rocks were coated with lichens, ferns and mosses of all shapes and sizes. In some areas the ground even looked like it was coated with snow.

The boardwalk snakes through the humid forest, and wombat trails can be seen winding their way amongst the trees and fallen logs. We found some beautiful pink orchids on the forest floor but at this stage my lens decide to seize (and later a piece of metal fell out).

We chose to drive on along the road expecting it to take us out of the reserve but very soon we found ourselves on an increasingly challenging 4WD track. It was a bit late in the day to continue, especially without any phone coverage!

Categories: 4WD, Australian Outback, Big Lap, Discover Australia, Explore Australia, Journey Narrative, Kids Travel, Location, National Park, Offroad, Photography, TAS, Tasmania, Travel, Travel Adventure, Walks | Tags: , , , , , | 4 Comments

Freycinet National Park

Heading for calmer and warmer conditions we drove straight back up North, through Hobart with only a brief lunch stop at Richmond to see the oldest bridge in Australia, built in 1823. Then on to our next camp at Friendly Beaches, close to Coles Bay. Here we captured photographic evidence of Xavier completing an easy challenge of patting a local animal, we think it is a Forresters Wallaby – let us know if this is right or not.

XwithForrestersWallaby

Friendly Beach saw the first landing of an edible, legal size fish, with a salmon and wrasse caught from the rocks. Xavier and I had an early morning jog to the end of the beach and back.

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A trip into Coles Bay saw us visiting Honeymoon Beach, Lighthouse Lookout and Sleepy Cove. Once again the crystal clear waters and colourful landscape is hard to capture in photos, especially when you have a speck of dust on your sensor! Hannah seized the moment, donned springsuit, mask and snorkel and dived in, whilst everyone else was still feeling the cold a little too much.

At the lookout we discovered Freycinet was the place to find lizards in Tasmania and we saw two different types, everywhere!

Hannah and Oscar lay down to measure how long a Bluefin Tuna is, and Oscar eyed up how hard his challenge to catch and eat one is!

The twitching highlight was the scarlet robin and green rosellas but we also found what appears to be a small dead possum by the track.

Categories: 4WD, Animal Action, Australian Outback, Beach, Big Lap, Camper Trailer, Car, Discover Australia, Explore Australia, Journey Narrative, Kids Travel, Location, Mitsubishi, National Park, Photography, TAS, Tasmania, Travel, Travel Adventure, Twitcher | Tags: , , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

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